Phewa is a shallow, warm, freshwater lake about four kilometres long, fed by the Harpan Khola and dammed at its southern end. Everything in Pokhara arranges itself around it. Here is how to spend time on it rather than just beside it.
At a glance
- Boats from
- Barahi ghat, Hallan Chowk
- Hire by
- the hour
- Best time
- 7–9 am, 4–6 pm
- Life jackets
- Required — wear one
Hiring a boat
The wooden boats are doongas — flat-bottomed, brightly painted, rowed with a single oar from the back. You hire them from the ghats along Lakeside; the main ones are at Barahi Chowk (for the temple) and near Hallan Chowk. You choose between rowing yourself or paying a little more for a boatman, and you pay by the hour. Pedal boats and small sailing dinghies are also available.
Rowing yourself is fun for an hour; for the Peace Pagoda crossing, take a boatman — he'll wait for you on the far shore. TODO: confirm current hourly rates with and without a boatman, and the fee for a boatman waiting.
Tal Barahi temple
The small two-storey pagoda on the island near the eastern shore is dedicated to Barahi, a boar-headed form of the goddess. It's an active shrine — Saturdays bring families with offerings, and animal sacrifice still takes place on major festival days. Boats to the island and back run from Barahi ghat in a few minutes. Dress modestly and ask before photographing people at prayer.
Across to the Peace Pagoda
Looking back at Pokhara and the Annapurnas from the Peace Pagoda terrace, lake in foreground
The classic half day. From the ghat, have the boatman take you to the landing directly below the pagoda on the western shore (about 20–30 minutes). From there a stone-stepped path climbs through forest for roughly 30–45 minutes to the stupa at about 1,100 m. Go up in the late afternoon for the light, allow 45 minutes at the top, and come down with enough daylight to spare — the path is dark under the trees before the lake is.
Swimming, fishing and the rest
People do swim from the boats and from the north shore beyond Pame; the water is warm and generally fine, though not pristine near the town. Fishing is the livelihood of the Jalari community who live on the lake, and the fish farms are visible as rows of floats. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards can be hired at the north end.
Begnas: the other lake
If you liked Phewa and want it without the town, Begnas Lake is about 15 km east — quieter, with a few resorts and boat hire. Covered in the day trips guide.
Questions I get asked
Can you row across Phewa Lake yourself?
Yes, and many people do, but the afternoon wind makes it hard work coming back. For the pagoda crossing, hire a boatman.
How deep is Phewa Lake?
Shallow — the average depth is only a few metres, with a maximum of around 20 m. It has been silting up for decades, which is why its area varies by source.
Is there a fee to enter Tal Barahi?
No entry fee for the temple itself; you pay for the boat.