Most people who come to Pokhara are here because of what is behind it. The Annapurna Conservation Area begins less than an hour’s drive from Lakeside, and three of Nepal’s best-known treks start from its edge. This is the overview; the trail-by-trail detail is a separate site.
At a glance
- Shortest
- Poon Hill, 4–5 days
- Classic
- ABC, 7–10 days
- Quieter
- Mardi Himal, 5–7 days
- Permits
- ACAP + TIMS
- Trailheads
- Nayapul, Kande, Phedi
Poon Hill (Ghorepani): the short one
Four to five days, topping out at the 3,210 m Poon Hill viewpoint above Ghorepani for a sunrise over Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. The trail from Nayapul climbs the famous stone staircase to Ulleri, through rhododendron forest to Ghorepani, then loops back via Tadapani and Ghandruk. Teahouses all the way. This is the trek for first-timers, families, and anyone with only a few days — the altitude is modest and the views are not.
Annapurna Base Camp: the classic
Annapurna Base Camp signboard with Annapurna I and the sanctuary wall behind
Seven to ten days into the Annapurna Sanctuary, a natural amphitheatre ringed by peaks over 7,000 m, ending at the base camp at 4,130 m. From Pokhara you drive to Nayapul or on to Kimche/Ghandruk, walk up through Chhomrong and the Modi Khola gorge, past Machhapuchhre Base Camp, and into the sanctuary. Teahouses throughout; the last section has avalanche risk in winter and early spring, so timing and a guide's judgement matter.
Mardi Himal: the quiet ridge
Five to seven days along a ridge east of the ABC trail, through forest to a high camp at about 3,550 m and on to a viewpoint or base camp around 4,500 m directly under Machhapuchhre. It starts from Kande or Phedi — both under an hour from Pokhara — and has become popular quickly, though it is still far quieter than ABC. Lodges are simpler and higher-camp weather is more exposed.
Permits
Two documents for all three treks:
- ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit): NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals, NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals. Issued at the Nepal Tourism Board office in Pokhara (Damside) or in Kathmandu. Bring passport and photos. TODO: confirm current fee and whether photos are still required.
- TIMS card (Trekkers' Information Management System): NPR 2,000 for foreigners, NPR 1,000 for SAARC. Issued through registered trekking agencies and the NTB office. TODO: confirm current fee.
Since April 2023 the Nepal Tourism Board has required trekkers in national parks and conservation areas to be accompanied by a licensed guide. Enforcement has varied by area and over time. TODO: confirm the current position for Annapurna before publishing guidance.
Using Pokhara before and after
Arrive at least a day before your trek: buy or hire gear on Lakeside (everything is available, much of it rented by the day), sort permits, and let your body enjoy being at 800 m. After the trek, Pokhara is the reward — a hot shower, a lake, a bakery. Most hotels will store your city luggage while you're on the trail.
If you'd like a guided trek with everything handled, I work with a licensed guide who runs small groups — see the about page. TODO: confirm the cross-link to the trekking site.
Questions I get asked
Can I trek from Pokhara without a guide?
The 2023 NTB rule says no for conservation areas, though enforcement has been uneven. A guide is inexpensive relative to the trip, and on ABC in particular the judgement on avalanche timing is worth paying for. TODO: confirm current enforcement.
How fit do I need to be?
Poon Hill: able to walk 5–6 hours a day on steps. ABC and Mardi: the same plus comfort with several days above 3,000 m. None require technical skills.
Where do I get gear?
Lakeside. Down jackets, sleeping bags, poles and boots are all sold or rented; quality varies, so inspect zips and seams.